Difference between revisions of "Crust leather"

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==Crusting==
 
==Crusting==
Crusting is part of the [[Leather production|tannery working steps for leather produciton]]. Crusting is when the hide is [[Leather production#Shaving|thinned]], [[tanning leather#retanned|retanned]] and [[tanning leather#Dyeing (through colouring) and [[fatliquoring|regreased]]. Often a coloring operation is included in the crusting process. Also part of the crusting process is the [[Drying leather|drying]] and [[softening]].  
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Crusting is part of the [[Leather production|tannery working steps for leather produciton]]. Crusting is when the hide is [[Leather production#Shaving|thinned]], [[tanning leather#retanned|retanned]] and [[Oils & fats in the leather industry#Fatliquoring (regreasing)|regreased]]. Often a [[Leather dye - Leather color - Leather colour#Dyed leather|dye process]] is included in the crusting. Also part of the crusting is the [[Drying leather|drying]] and [[softening]].  
  
Crusting may include depending on the [[types of leather|type of leather]] the following working steps:
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Crusting may include the following working steps depending on the [[types of leather|type of leather]]:
 
* '''[[Split leather|Splitting]]''': The leather is split into one or more horizontal layers.
 
* '''[[Split leather|Splitting]]''': The leather is split into one or more horizontal layers.
 
* '''[[Neutralising|neutralisation]]''': The pH of the leather is adjusted.
 
* '''[[Neutralising|neutralisation]]''': The pH of the leather is adjusted.

Revision as of 21:51, 14 November 2016

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Crust leather

Crustleder ist Leder, das nach der Gerbung getrocknet, aber noch nicht gefärbt ist. Bei chromgegerbten Ledern spricht man dann von "Chrom-Crust" oder bei pflanzlich gegerbten Ledern von "Pflanzen-Crust". Ein weiterer Begriff für "Crustleder" ist "Borke" oder "Borkeleder".

Crustleder wird nur selten weiterverarbeitet. Meist werden die Leder vor der Verarbeitung noch gefärbt und zugerichtet.


Anilinoffen.jpg Wet-blue.jpg

Wet-Blue-04.jpg

"Pflanzencrust" - "Chromcrust"

 

236px Wuerfelbecher-001.jpg

Pflanzliche Crustleder verarbeitet.

 

Chrome-crust-belt-02.jpg

Unusual. Chrom-Crust weiterverarbeitet. Die Färbung ist so nicht ansprechend. Daher eher eine "Billig-Lösung".

 

Crusting

Crusting is part of the tannery working steps for leather produciton. Crusting is when the hide is thinned, retanned and regreased. Often a dye process is included in the crusting. Also part of the crusting is the drying and softening.

Crusting may include the following working steps depending on the type of leather:

  • Splitting: The leather is split into one or more horizontal layers.
  • neutralisation: The pH of the leather is adjusted.
  • [[|Retanning: Additional tanning imparts properties.
  • Dyeing: The leather is coloured in the drum.
  • Fatliquoring: Fats and oils and waxes soften the leather fibres.
  • Shaving: The leather is thinned using a machine which cuts leather fibres off the flesh side.
  • Wetting: Leather has to be rehydrated depending on the following working steps.
  • Sammying: Water is squeezed out the leather.

filling - heavy/dense chemicals that make the leather harder and heavier are added. stuffing - fats/oils and waxes are added between the fibres.

stripping - superficially fixed tannins are removed.

whitening - the colour of the leather is lightened.

fixation - all unbound chemicals are chemically bonded/trapped or removed from the leather

setting - area, grain flatness are imparted and excess water removed.

drying - the leather is dried to various moisture levels (commonly 14-25%).

conditioning - water is added to the leather to a level of 18-28%.

softening - physical softening of the leather by separating the leather fibres.

buffing - abrasion of the surfaces of the leather to reduce nap or grain defects.



Additional information


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