Difference between revisions of "Oils & fats in the leather industry"

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==Öle, Fette und Wachse in der [[Lederherstellung]]==
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==Oils, fats and waxes in the leather production==
Der Einsatz von Fetten, Ölen und Wachsen in der Lederherstellung ist ein wichtiger Prozess. Die Substanzen werden in der Produktion eingesetzt, um bestimmte [[Lederqualität|Eingenschaften]] ([[Haptik|Weichheit]], [[Imprägnierung]] zu erreichen oder um das [[Zurichtung|Aussehen]]) zu beeinflussen. Aber auch in der [[Lederpflege]] spielen Fette, Öle und Wachse eine große Rolle.
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Greases, oils and waxes play an important role in the [[leather production|leather production process]]. They are used to help achieve certain [[leather quality|properties]] ([[Haptic evaluation of leather surfaces|softness]], [[Waterproofing leather|waterproofing]] or appearance). The refatting also prevents the leather fibers from sticking together during [[leather production#Drying|drying]] in leather production. Fats, oils and waxes are main components of [[leather care]] and are also sometimes used directly during [[Tanning with fats and oils|tanning]]. The fat content in the leather after tanning is about 1 to 25%.
 
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Aber selbst bei einigen [[Gerbung|Gerbarten]] spielen Fette eine wichtige Rolle. Bei der [[Sämischleder|Trangebung]] oder [[Hirngerbung]] sind die fettenden Substanzen wichtig für die dauerhafte Konservierung der Haut. Man nennt diese Methoden der Lederherstellung auch [[Fettgerbung]].  
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==Fatliquoring (regreasing)==
 
==Fatliquoring (regreasing)==
Beim [[Gerbung|Gerben]] werden die vom Tier noch vorhandenen Fette von der [[Rohhaut]] entfernt, da diese nicht konserviert sind und ranzig würden. Um ein weiches oder stabiles [[Leder]] zu erhalten, muss es rückgefettet werden. Schon zu Beginn der Gerbung wurde Leder daher mit Milch, Hirn, Eigelb, Pflanzenöl oder Fischtran (auch „Fischöl“ genannt) rückgefettet. Fette wurden auch für die sogenannte [[Fettgerbung]] verwendet. Daher hat fertiges [[Leder]] einen Fettgehalt von einem (sehr trockenes Leder) bis zu 25% ([[Fettleder]]).  
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During the [[leather production|tanning process]], the animal's natural fats are removed from the [[rawhide]] because, as they are not preserved, they will become rancid. To obtain a [[leather quality|soft and stable]] leather, it must be re-greased. Going back to the origins of tanning, leather used to be re-greased with milk, [[brain tanning|brain]], egg yolk, vegetable oil or fish transe (also called "fish oil"). Fats were also used for fat tanning. A finished [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|oiled leather]] has a fat content of up to 25%.
  
Die Fettung hat auch Einfluss auf den [[Ledergeruch]]. Wobei es nur ein Teil der vielen Geruchsstoffe eines fertigen Leders ausmacht. Rückfettungsmittel guter Qualität haben aber keinen störenden Eigengeruch.  
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Fatliquoring involves reapplying water-soluble oils to [[leather]]. This can be done in the tanning process or even after [[Washing and dry cleaning leather|dry cleaning]]. The dry cleaning process is carried out in a solvent bath, which thoroughly degreases the leather. The fatliquor makes the leather supple and stable and gives a handsome appearance to the "starved" look of degreased leather.
  
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Oils and fats affect the [[leather smell|smell of leather]]. They are among many substances used in [[Leather production|tanning]] which influence the smell of the finished leather. Fatliquors of good quality do not have an intrusive odour.
  
==Rohstoffe für die Fettungsmittel==
 
'''Seetieröle''': Tran, Fischöl
 
  
'''Landtieröle und Fette''': Klauenöl, Rindertalg, Schweinefett, Knochenfett
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==Raw materials for the fatliquoring agents==
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* Sea animal oils: Fish oil
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* Land animal oils and fats: Claw oil, beef tallow, pig fat, bone fat
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* Vegetable oils and fats: Palm oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, coconut fat, palm kernel fat, turkey red oil
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* Waxes: Carnauba wax, montan wax, wool grease
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* Synthetic fats: Paraffin oil, mineral oil, fatty alcohol, fatty acid ester
  
'''Pflanzliche Öle und Fette''': Palmöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Rüböl, Sojaöl, Kokosnussfett, Palmkernfett, Türkischrotöl
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Fats and oils that are introduced into the leather must always be heated in such a way that they become liquid and can thus penetrate the fiber structure.
 
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'''Wachse''': Carnaubawachs, Montanwachs, Wollfett
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'''Synthetische Fette''': Paraffinöl, Mineralöl, Fettalkohol, Fettsäureester
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''Fischöl'' - ''Klauenöl''<br></p>
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''fish oil'' - ''claw oil''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
==Lickern==
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==Fats in [[leather care]] and [[finish]]==
Unter '''Lickern''' versteht man die Rückfettung von [[Leder]] mit wasserlöslichen Ölen. Das kann im [[Gerben|Gerbprozess]] erfolgen oder auch nach einer [[Chemische Reinigung|chemischen Reinigung]]. Bei der chemischen Reinigung im Lösungsmittelbad wird das Bekleidungsleder stark entfettet. Durch das "Lickern" wird das Leder wieder geschmeidig und stabil, und die "verhungerte" Optik des entfetteten Leders bekommt wieder ein ansehnliches Aussehen.  
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Leather is not only greased and oiled during [[leather production|production]] to make it supple and soft. Fats and oils are also used as [[leather care]] against wear (in particular, [[Shoe care|shoe polish]]), or to [[Waterproofing leather|waterproof]] leather, or to preserve old and dry leather by re-greasing and softening.
  
 
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Oils, greases and waxes are also used in the [[finish]]. For [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|pull up (greased leather - waxed leather - oiled leather)]], these substances are used to achieve certain effects in the surface. [[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|Pull-up leather]] usually has [[Antique Leather - Vintage Leather#patina|patina]] which increases with time.
==Fette in [[Lederpflege]] und in der [[Zurichtung]]==
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Leder wird nicht nur gefettet, damit es geschmeidig wird, Fette und Öle werden als [[Pflegemittel]] verwendet, damit die Lederoberfläche wieder gleichmäßiger wird (insbesondere [[Schuhcreme]], das Leder geschützt wird [[Imprägnierung]] und damit trockene Leder auch weider rückgefettet werden.
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Öle, Fette und Wachse werden auch in der [[Zurichtung]] verwendet. Bei den sogenannten [[Fettleder|Fettledern]] werden diese Substanzen eingesetzt, um bestimmte Effekte in der Oberfläche zu erreichen. Fettleder haben i. d. R. eine [[Patina|Patinaoptik]] die sich mit der Zeit auch verstärkt.  
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<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
[[bild:Tasche-Fettleder-01.jpg|250px]]
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[[bild:Tasche-Fettleder-01.jpg|500px]]
[[bild:Pull-Up-Riemen-02.jpg|250px]]
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</p>
 
</p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
''[[Pull-Up-Leder|Fettleder]]''<br></p>
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[[bild:Pull-Up-Riemen-02.jpg|500px]]
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</p>
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<p align=center>
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''[[Pull up leather - Greased leather - Waxed leather - Oiled leather|pull up leather - waxed leather]]''<br></p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
 
<p>&nbsp;</p>
  
==Einbrennfettung==
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==Video about the treatment of hardened [[Vintage & Classic car leather|vintage car leather]]==
Als '''Einbrennfettung''' bezeichnet man das Lickern von frisch [[Chromgerbung|chromgegerbten Ledern]] nach dem Trocknen, indem sie in heißes, flüssiges Fett eingebracht werden.
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<p align=center>
 
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<flashow>//www.youtube.com/v/fow2V_iUtrw&fs=1&color1=0x660000&color2=0x550000&border=1|width=500|height=281,25</flashow> <br></p>
 
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<p align=center>
==Die Empfehlung, wenn man im geringen Umfang [[Selber gerben|selbst gegerbtes Leder]] selber rückfetten möchte==
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''[https://www.colourlock.com/How-To-s/Car-Leather/The-treatment-of-hardened-leather/ How to soften old, hardened car leather.]''
* Die noch leicht angefeuchtete Haut mit der [[Narbenseite]] nach unten auf eine flache Holzplatte legen. Bei Fellen die Haarseite nach unten legen.
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</p>
 
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* 30 Milliliter Türkischrotöl mit 120 Milliliter warmen Wasser mischen. Alternativ: 20 Gramm Talg, 20 Gramm Kernseife und 150 Milliliter warmes Wasser.
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* Die Mischung mit einem Pinsel auf die [[Fleischseite]] dünn auftragen. Ein zu starker Auftrag macht das Leder kleberig.  
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* Einige Tage kühl lagern, damit das Öl gut einziehen kann. Überschüsse auf der Oberfläche mit einem angefeuchteten Schwamm abwischen.
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* -> Weiter bei [[Walken#Die Empfehlung, wenn man im geringen Umfang selbst gegerbtes Leder selber weich machen möchte|"Weich walken"]] (Start bei "[[Selber gerben]]").
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<werbebanner />
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== [[Leather videos|Video]] about the [[leather production]]==
 
== [[Leather videos|Video]] about the [[leather production]]==
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
<flashow>http://www.youtube.com/v/zbj1QicTdpI&fs=1&color1=0x660000&color2=0x550000&border=1|width=500|height=281,25</flashow><br></p>
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<flashow>//www.youtube.com/v/-qn5R8dKcss&fs=1&color1=0x660000&color2=0x550000&border=1|width=500|height=281,25</flashow><br></p>
 
<p align=center>
 
<p align=center>
 
''The [[leather production]] in a modern [[tannery]].''
 
''The [[leather production]] in a modern [[tannery]].''
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! bgcolor=#eeeeee | [[Leather production|Process steps in the leather production]]
 
! bgcolor=#eeeeee | [[Leather production|Process steps in the leather production]]
 
|-
 
|-
| bgcolor=#ffffff align=center | [[storage of leather|storage]] - [[soaking]] - [[Liming - Leather Tanning|liming]] - [[Fleshing - Making of leather|fleshing]] - [[Split leather|splitting]] - [[pickling]] - [[Tanning leather|tanning]] - [[neutralising]] - [[Drying leather|withering]] - [[Leather production#Sorting|sorting]] - [[shaving]] - [[Leather production#Dyeing (through colouring) and fatliquoring|yeing (through colouring) and fatliquoring]] - [[Drying leather|drying]] - [[finish]] - [[softening]] - [[Leather quality|final check]]
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| bgcolor=#ffffff align=center | [[storage of leather|storage]] - [[soaking]] - [[Liming - Leather Tanning|liming]] - [[Fleshing - Making of leather|fleshing]] - [[Split leather|splitting]] - [[pickling]] - [[Tanning leather|tanning]] - [[neutralising]] - [[Drying leather|withering]] - [[Leather production#Sorting|sorting]] - [[shaving]] - [[Leather production#Dyeing - Fatliquoring - Re-tanning|dyeing - fatliquoring - retanning]] - [[Drying leather|drying]] - [[finish]] - [[softening]] - [[Leather quality|final check]]
 
|}
 
|}
 
</center>
 
</center>

Latest revision as of 13:09, 13 July 2023

LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg


Oils, fats and waxes in the leather production

Greases, oils and waxes play an important role in the leather production process. They are used to help achieve certain properties (softness, waterproofing or appearance). The refatting also prevents the leather fibers from sticking together during drying in leather production. Fats, oils and waxes are main components of leather care and are also sometimes used directly during tanning. The fat content in the leather after tanning is about 1 to 25%.


Fatliquoring (regreasing)

During the tanning process, the animal's natural fats are removed from the rawhide because, as they are not preserved, they will become rancid. To obtain a soft and stable leather, it must be re-greased. Going back to the origins of tanning, leather used to be re-greased with milk, brain, egg yolk, vegetable oil or fish transe (also called "fish oil"). Fats were also used for fat tanning. A finished oiled leather has a fat content of up to 25%.

Fatliquoring involves reapplying water-soluble oils to leather. This can be done in the tanning process or even after dry cleaning. The dry cleaning process is carried out in a solvent bath, which thoroughly degreases the leather. The fatliquor makes the leather supple and stable and gives a handsome appearance to the "starved" look of degreased leather.

Oils and fats affect the smell of leather. They are among many substances used in tanning which influence the smell of the finished leather. Fatliquors of good quality do not have an intrusive odour.


Raw materials for the fatliquoring agents

  • Sea animal oils: Fish oil
  • Land animal oils and fats: Claw oil, beef tallow, pig fat, bone fat
  • Vegetable oils and fats: Palm oil, sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, coconut fat, palm kernel fat, turkey red oil
  • Waxes: Carnauba wax, montan wax, wool grease
  • Synthetic fats: Paraffin oil, mineral oil, fatty alcohol, fatty acid ester

Fats and oils that are introduced into the leather must always be heated in such a way that they become liquid and can thus penetrate the fiber structure.


Fischoel-01.jpg Klauenoel-01.jpg

fish oil - claw oil

 

Fats in leather care and finish

Leather is not only greased and oiled during production to make it supple and soft. Fats and oils are also used as leather care against wear (in particular, shoe polish), or to waterproof leather, or to preserve old and dry leather by re-greasing and softening.

Oils, greases and waxes are also used in the finish. For pull up (greased leather - waxed leather - oiled leather), these substances are used to achieve certain effects in the surface. Pull-up leather usually has patina which increases with time.


Tasche-Fettleder-01.jpg

Pull-Up-Riemen-02.jpg

pull up leather - waxed leather

 

Video about the treatment of hardened vintage car leather


How to soften old, hardened car leather.


Additional information


Video about the leather production


The leather production in a modern tannery.


Process steps in the leather production
storage - soaking - liming - fleshing - splitting - pickling - tanning - neutralising - withering - sorting - shaving - dyeing - fatliquoring - retanning - drying - finish - softening - final check


Colourlock-GB-03.jpg

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