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<p align=center> [[bild:LEATHER-DICTIONARY.jpg|300px]] </p> ==Cutting leather== Whether [[cars]], [[leather furniture|furniture]], [[leather clothing|clothing leather]] or for [[leather shoes|shoe leather]], leather has to be cut first, except when it is used as a complete skin. <p align=center> [[bild:Igeltasche-01.jpg|500px]] </p> <p align=center> ''Depending on the design, the cutting can be very complex.''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> Since a leather skin has a [[Parts of the hide|non-uniform outer contour]], there are [[Natural markings on leather|defects in the leather]] and not all areas of the skin are of the same [[leather quality|quality]] or have the same [[Leather grain - Grain side|grain pattern]], the art of cutting leather lies in the optimal area yield while taking all these aspects into consideration. <p align=center> [[bild:Zebra-Fell-01.jpg‎|165px]] [[bild:Heckenrisse-0002.jpg|165px]] [[bild:Narbenunterschied-002.jpg|165px]] </p> <p align=center> ''A [[Parts of the hide|non-uniform outer contour]], [[Natural markings on leather|defects in the leather surface]] and [[Leather grain - Grain side|grain pattern differences]] must be considered.''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p align=center> [[bild:Zuschnitt-12.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Zuschnitt-10.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''[[Natural markings on leather]] are marked and spared during cutting.'' </p> A cutter must check the skin on both sides for [[Natural markings on leather|defects]]. This can be colour defects or damages in the skin. Cutting lines must be chosen in such a way that the finished objects have a similar [[Leather grain - Grain side|grain pattern]]. A cutter must select the [[Parts of the hide|better parts of the hide]] for the upholstery areas with more use like seats and armrests. An all this must be done by ensuring the smallest possible amount of [[leather cutting waste|cutting waste]]. Leather is sold by [[Measures and weights|surface]], and cutting waste increases costs. In the [[leather furniture|furniture]] and [[car leather|vehicle sector]], the [[leather cutting waste|waste]] is generally between 30 and 45%. Smaller skins with larger blanks usually incur more wastage. Some manufacturers point to the [[Natural markings on leather|natural characteristics]] of the leather and leave them visible in the blanks as long as the [[leather quality|stability of the leather]] is ensured. In such cases, the waste is reduced and the consumer does not get any bad leather. The customer is only required to be sufficiently informed and do not perceive such surface differences as a defect. <p align=center> [[bild:Möbel-Narbenunterschied-02.jpg|500px]] </p> <p align=center> ''When cutting, care must be taken that the [[Leather grain - Grain side|grain structure]] is not too different. Here, it depends on the customer information before buying whether the difference is acceptable or not.'' </p> <p align=center> [[bild:Zuschnitt-01.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Zuschnitt-05.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''The blank parts are selected on the screen and distributed on the scanned skin around the marked [[Natural markings on leather|defects]].'' </p> ==Manual cutting== In case of individual products or small amounts, the blanks can be cut by means of a template. A stencil is placed on the leather and marked. Then the leather is [[Leather workshop|cut out by hand]] with a pair of scissors or a knife. Important! Markers with permanent inks can cause [[colour migration]]. There are various pens for marking leather, which do not cause such problems. <p align=center> [[bild:Anzeichnen-Silbermine-01.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Schneiden-01.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''The cutting lines are marked with a silver pen and cut with a special leather knife (tools available at [http://www.ledermanufaktur.com www.ledermanufaktur.com]).''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p align=center> [[bild:Peel-Off-Marker-01.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Peel-Off-Marker-03.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''Markings of the silver mines must be cleaned with moisture. Easier to handle are peel-off markers, which are simply rubbed off with the finger, available at [https://www.colourlock.com/ www.colourlock.com].''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> ==Machine cut== For cutting leather, there are various automated cutting machines. There is the possibility of detecting the external contours of the leather skins by laser. For this purpose, [[Natural markings on leather|leather damages]] are marked. Computer programs then calculate the optimal cutting. The skin is then aligned on the cutting table. The outer contour of the previously scanned skin is marked on the table by light, so that the skin is correctly positioned. Then the skin is sucked to the table by vacuum and the cutting is automatically performed by a knife or water jet. When cutting with knives, small knives are used that cost less than 10 euros and cut up to 15 kilometres without interchange. Soft or wavy leathers are cut by placing a plastic film around outer edges of the skin. The vacuum ensures the edges stay flat on the table allowing them to be cut either by a machine or by the use of a cutting knife. <p align=center> [[bild:Zuschnitt-13.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Zuschnitt-06.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''A foil prevents the leather edges from rising. - The cutting with a knife.''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p align=center> [[bild:Zuschnitt-08.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Zuschnitt-09.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''Even with knives you can cut very fine contours with the automatic cutting of leather.''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> After cutting, the blanks are optically marked with a laser so that the parts can be pre-sorted more easily for the next step. To simplify the work, the same parts are illuminated with the same colour. <p align=center> [[bild:Zuschnitt-03.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Verschnittreste-01.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''Laser lighting as working aid. - [[Leather cutting waste]].''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> Cutting with the water jet is done with a 0.1 nozzle and strong pressure. Finer contours can be cut than with the knife. The leather is not significantly wet by cutting with water. <p align=center> [[bild:Leder-Messerschneiden-01.jpg|167px]] [[bild:Leder-Messerschneiden-02.jpg|167px]] [[bild:Leder-Messerschneiden-03.jpg|167px]] </p> <p align=center> ''The automatic cutting with the knife has only problems with smallest detailed contours.''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <p align=center> [[bild:Leder-Wasserschneiden-01.jpg|167px]] [[bild:Leder-Wasserschneiden-02.jpg|167px]] [[bild:Leder-Wasserschneiden-03.jpg|167px]] </p> <p align=center> ''Automatic cutting with water jet can cut detailed contours more precisely.''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> The saddlery in Zuffenhausen at Porsche employ approx. 250 employees. The car seats are cut exclusively with water jet cutting systems. For a Porsche 911 approx. 5 hides are processed. With cheaper cut-to-size tables, it is possible to illuminate the positions on the cutting table and the leather is then positioned under the light, held in position by vacuum and then automatically cut. <p align=center> [[bild:Zuschneideautomat-02.jpg‎|250px]] [[bild:Zuschneideautomat-01.jpg‎|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''Illuminated cut and finished cut, seen at [http://www.ledermanufaktur.com www.ledermanufaktur.com]).''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> ==[[Hole punching|Punching]] leather== Leather is also punched. The punch knives are then laid on the leather and then [[Hole punching|pressed into the leather]] with a punching press. <p align=center> [[bild:Lederstanze-02.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Stanzen-Proben-01.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> ''Punching tool for punching four [[Genuine leather#Use of the leather logo|leather symbols]]. - Different punching tools.''<br></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> The swing arm punch machine for leather is often used. The punching is triggered on two handles so that the hands cannot be injured under the press. In order to punch as many parts as possible in one working step, several tools or tools with several fields can be laid on and leather can be superimposed several times. The highest yield is obtained with as many punching tools as possible and with a maximum of leather layers. <p align=center> [[bild:Schwenkarmstanze-01.jpg|500px]] </p> <p align=center> [[bild:Schwenkarmstanze-02.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Schwenkarmstanze-03.jpg|250px]] </p> <p align=center> [[bild:Schwenkarmstanze-04.jpg|250px]] [[bild:Schwenkarmstanze-05.jpg|250px]] </p> ==Cutting leather with a [[Laser engraving - Laser cutting leather|laser]]== Leather can also be cut with a laser. As with waterjet cutting, fine contours are no problem. However, since the laser is a combustion process, the leather smells accordingly and the soot of the cut edges can cause stains. It is therefore always necessary to check whether [[Hole punching|punching]] or knife cutting or waterjet cutting is the better alternative. <p align=center> [[bild:Lasern-01.jpg‎|500px]] </p> <p align=center> [[bild:Auslasern-01.jpg|500px]] </p> <p align=center> ''With a laser-cut leather.'' </p><p>&nbsp;</p> <werbebanner /> == Additional information == * [[Natural markings on leather]] * [[Leather defects]] * [[Leather cutting waste]] * [[Measures and weights]] * [[Laser engraving - Laser cutting leather]] * [[Hole punching]] <logoplustext /> [[Kategorie:All Articles]] [[Kategorie:Leather production]]

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